Half of what we do at the counter is talking someone out of a plant that will not make it in their yard, and pointing them at something that will. That advice is free whether or not you buy anything.
Know your hardiness zone
We are firmly zone 6b. A tag that says a plant survives to zone 7 is telling you it will not reliably survive our winters, no matter how good it looks on the rack at a big-box store two towns over in a warmer zone. Ask us before you buy anything you saw somewhere else.
The last-frost date runs the whole spring
Our posted last-frost date is the hinge the whole season turns on. Cool-season crops and hardy perennials go out ahead of it. Tomatoes, peppers, basil and every other tender plant wait until after it, full stop - a warm week in between does not change the soil temperature at night, and a late frost will kill a tender start outright.
An honest read on sun and shade
Bring a photo of the spot, or describe it and we will ask the right questions - how many hours of direct sun, morning or afternoon, and whether anything above it leafs out later in spring. Most plant failures we see are a sun plant in shade or the reverse, not a black thumb.
Test your soil before you guess
We sell a simple soil pH and nutrient test at the counter. Bring back the results and we will tell you plainly what to add and how much - most yards here run slightly acidic and need less lime than people assume.
Bring us the problem before you spray anything
Bring in a leaf, a branch, or a clear photo and we will identify the pest or disease at the counter, no appointment needed. Most of what people spray for is not what they think it is, and the wrong treatment can do more damage than the problem.
Native plants and pollinators
We keep a native and pollinator-friendly section stocked separately, tagged with bloom time so you can plan a bed that has something flowering from April through frost. Natives also tend to need less water once established, which matters most in the summer lull.
Deer-resistant, with the honest caveat
We tag a shelf of plants deer usually leave alone. "Usually" is the operative word - a hungry enough deer in a hard winter will eat almost anything, so treat resistant plants as better odds, not a guarantee, and fence what you cannot afford to lose.